Removing wheel hub on a 2000 Honda Accord.?
Need to replace lug studs on a 2000 Honda Accord.
FACTS: Wheels hubs have to be removed to get clearance to install new lug studs and remove old ones. Cutting away the backing plate isn’t enough for clearance. I’ve removed wheels, breaks and axle nuts. I can slide the axles in and out easily. The car is in my garage. Can’t drive the car to the shop because two studs are broken on one side and 1 on another side (both fronts wheels).
1.) What’s the best way to remove the the hubs?
2.) Do I need special tools?
3.) Do I need to replace the bearings after the wheel hubs are removed?
4.) With this much work, should I just replace all the studs while I have the hubs out?
Commentary: Apparently most Hondas are designed this way, meaning the hubs have to be removed just to replace broken stubs. Not very smart for Honda.
21 minutes ago
Could be worse – my daughter’s ’93 Accord has to have the steering knuckles (technical name for what you and I call hubs) removed to replace the brake discs!
Anyway, the process in either case involves removing the axle nut (250 ft-lb or more impact wrench unless you are much more manly than I am, but you know that) and unfastening the tie rod end (tie rod end separator – don’t use a pickle fork, which ruins the boot). It is possible to do what you are trying to do without separating the tie rod end, just really inconvenient because the steering knuckle is still attached to the car and the axle may not even come all the way out like that.
EDIT – duh! If the steering is run to that end the axle should come out okay. Next time I should try that!
Of course the brake caliper comes off and gets tied up. The ’93 also requires a 12 point 10 mm socket – accept no substitutes – to remove the odd bolts that hold the rotor if you have to do that much. The axle slips out of the bearings with some taps of a rubber mallet, not enough to brinnel the bearings. I’ve never replaced the bearings after axle changes and never had a bearing get noisy.
Obviously after all that you will want to remove *all* the studs and replace them. And when reassembling the tie rod end (if you have to do that), resist the temptation to lubricate the taper fit. It won’t help getting it apart later and makes it very hard to tighten the nut this time. Oh – new cotter pin there, too.
Installing a Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert