Handpainted Handmade

Handpainted Handmade

How to Install, Maintain and Repair your Leather Flooring

WHY USE LEATHER FOR FLOORING Leather has many practical benefits that derive from its natural qualities – it is durable, hardwearing, supple and when coloured and distressed (enhanced patination) it can look incredible in most interior settings. It is the perfect material for flooring and is extremely comfortable underfoot. Leather also provides acoustic and heat insulation benefits whether used as leather flooring or wall panels. Leather is lustrous, elegant and has a seductive aroma and is inviting to touch.

NEW SYSTEM Leather floors / Leather Tiles are inherently hard to install. They can bubble up, they can get the telescope effect (eg. a small bit of grit on the floor will look a lot larger on the surface of the installed tile), they often need to be rolled flat (which can result in tiles being moved in the process, glues gets everywhere, etc. Having experienced these sorts of installations for several years, we decided to adhere our Leather to a wooden base. Technically you are no longer installing leather but installing wood. Provided the finished substrate is flat you should have no problems installing these floors. It is dead easy.

The concept behind our patinated leather floor tiles originates from old Cotto Floors (cotto meaning terracotta) – not all joints will be tight, some tiles are more irregular than others. The joints, if desired, can be later filled in with wax. We also stain the wood substrate to ensure that no wood colour shows through the joints.

INSTALLATION Leather tiles should be allowed to acclimatize to the new environment for at least a week before they are installed. Effective tile installation requires a clean, dust-free environment and should occur after all other site construction has been completed (especially overhead works). Tiles are affected by humidity and we advise you not to install tiles in areas with uncontrolled humidity. The tiles should not be used in excessively dry less than 20% humidity on average.

Prior to Installation, we suggest that the installer lays the tiles out on the floor to be viewed by the designer or end user. This will allow for the possibility that they may want some of the tiles repositioned before gluing to the wall or floor.

The tiles are to be adhered directly to a FLAT surface. When applying the tiles be sure that the entire site has been thoroughly vacuumed and cleaned of dust and dirt. Once the surface has been cleaned, apply the adhesive (we recommend SIKA T52 or another reputable trowled-on adhesive). Firstly, apply the adhesive to both the substrate and to the back of the tile with a brush or serrated trowel and stick to the substrate.

Once the tile has been applied and has time to dry, it is virtually impossible to move the tiles.

ADHESIVE We strongly recommend you use SikaBond – T52 fully bonded system (Troweled Adhesive). Allow 25mm for finished floor (possibly less)

Suggest you use either a Tiler or a reputable wood floor installer to install our Leather Floors and Walls.

Do not use a contact adhesive as you will be unable to adjust tiles if there are variances in the floor (ie. if floor is not totally flat). You must use a Trowel applied adhesive. There is also a discrepancy in tile thickness which can easily be adjusted.

The smell of the adhesive is only temporary and will go very soon after being laid leaving a lovely leathery aroma. Once the glue has fully set it will give heat resistance and water resistance, which will help if there is an accident.

CLEANING & MAINTENANCE Leather tiles are easy to care for. To properly protect your new leather tiles you should wax upon completion of installation and before the floor is walked on for the very first time.

To keep your tile looking as regal as when you first purchased them, they will need a coat of wax about once a year. This is not compulsory but is recommended. Hand wax the tiles and leave them overnight to soak into the surface. This is best applied with a clean cotton cloth. Saturate the cloth and apply in a circular motion (do not over soak the cloth in Wax). When the wax is dry, buff lightly with a horse brush for example (without using a machine) to create a semi-gloss finish. For large areas we suggest you use a small handheld buffer to polish the tile, the kind one would use to polish a car – make sure you change the bonnet of the buffer as soon as it starts to get clogged up with wax.

The wax gives the tiles protection against damage from liquid for up to 72 hours.

You can wax again anytime the tile looks dull or scuffed. Or apply wax just to keep the leather well conditioned. You can also wax just the traffic lanes if they start to look very scuffed. Some people like the scuffing as part of the look they want from the leather.

Leather floors can fade if in direct sunlight. These areas may require a little more care when it comes to maintenance.

To clean the tiles just vacuum or sweep them and use a damp cloth to clear up any spillages.

Your floor will, like an old leather bag or an old pair of shoes, improve with time. Don’t fret with every scratch or knock. Should your tiles develop scratches we suggest you use either a clear or coloured wax (similar to the colour of the tile). Wax over the damaged surface, allow to dry then buff with a brush. This usually repairs the damage. The more you wax the more the scratches blend in. When I first installed my leather floor I was paranoid about every mark. Do Not Worry. Your tiles will take the nicks, scratches and spills of daily wear-and-tear and incorporate them into a rich and unique patina.

In summary – leather floors are easy… choose your tile, prepare your subfloor, lay tiles out to check prior to installing, stick tiles down in the desired pattern with a trowled on adhesive, wax periodically and enjoy ! Simple !

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Visit www.deferranti.com or our very own www.leather-floors.com to see our full range of leather floors and walls. Our leather tiles can be supplied plain, patinated, embossed and assembled into combinations such as Parquet de Versailles.

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With over 10 years in the Tile and stone business, Alvaro de Ferranti (Chairman of DE FERRANTI a registered trademark) is an authority on Mosaics, rare limestone and marbles, pietre dure inlay, handmade and handpainted ceramics, wood fire terracotta, repoussage, verre eglomisee, shell and mother of pearl, leather floors and metal floors and any exquisite surfaces you can imagine. His knowledge stretches from material origins and uses, right through to installation and maintenance. You are most welcome to contact him through the website with any questions.

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Recommended adhesive supplier – http://www.sika.com/

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Glossary “Patina is everything that happens to an object over the course of time. The nick in the leg of a table, a scratch on a table top, the loss of moisture in the paint, the crackling of a finish or a glaze in ceramics, the gentle wear patterns on the edge of a plate. All these things add up to create a softer look, subtle color changes, a character. Patina is built from all the effects, natural and man-made, that create a true antique…” courtesy of Wikipedia®

Copyright © Alvaro Ziani de Ferranti 2007

About the Author

Alvaro de Ferranti is an world renowned expert on exquisite surfaces for interiors and architecture. Having worked closely with craftsmen from all over the world, experts in their own specialist fields, Alvaro shares his knowledge with a series of articles which he will publish throughout the year. He can be contacted via the company website at www.deferranti.com

Handmade & handpainted masks Made In Latacunga – Ecuador

Mid Century

Mid Century
All-Renewable Power in EU Would Cost $3.8 Trillion, Group Says
April 20 (Bloomberg) — Converting the European Union’s power plants to using all renewable sources by mid-century would cost 2.8 trillion euros ($3.8 trillion), more than Britain’s gross domestic product in 2009, an energy trade group said.
Mid-Century Modern 3/2 Pool Home on Point Lot with 180 Ft. of Water Frontage, Wilton Manors, Fl.

Studio Art

Studio Art
If I’m getting my Bachelors in studio art, can I get my Masters in Architecture?

I am a junior in college majoring in studio art and have lately been exploring various career options. Recently, I have thought about attending graduate school to get my masters in architecture. I was wondering if it is possible to get into a graduate architecture program with an art degree; also, what concentration (painting, sculpture, graphic design/digital art, and printmaking) is most beneficial when applying to schools? I have to choose a major concentration as well as a minor concentration and was wondering which ones would be most applicable in my situation. Thank you!

Hi there.
Well basically you need a bachelor’s degree in architecture in order to apply in its graduate program. Perhaps you can be admitted to the graduate program provided that you will take extra courses in architecture to satisfy the deficiency (either credit or non-credit)
For your major concentration, any from those you have mentioned will do since studio art is not a related discipline. But iIf it is possible, It might be helpful if you will take architecture as your minor concentartion (at least you’ll have a backgrounder and it will lessen the deficiency)
I suggest that you try to talk to your undergraduate program coordinator about your plans. He/she can help you more about it. Good luck! =)

Mimi’s Art Studio

Stoneware Pottery

Stoneware Pottery

Classic Pottery Bookends From Famous Makers

Southeast Ohio was once the home of many famous pottery makers. Even today, names like Hull, McCoy and Robinson Ransbottom still echo through the Muskingum River Valley. Pottery bookends are among some of the most collectible pieces from these well known pottery makers.

The area around the Muskingum River Valley provided the perfect combination of natural resources that included a ready source of fine grade clay. Often found along the seams of coal that dotted the subterranean landscape, the clay gave birth to over fifty pottery manufacturers. The abundance of coal provided a great source of energy to fuel the kilns that were needed to fire the clay.

The fine quality of the clay found in and around towns like Zanesville, Crooksville and Roseville produced porcelain like quality. A combination of artistry and quality has made pottery from this area some of the most collectable in the country if not the world. Pottery bookends from southeast Ohio stand as a testament to the century of fine pottery making that continues today. Annual events are held to celebrate and commemorate the rich traditional of pottery making, drawing thousands of collectors and pottery enthusiasts.

Some pieces were created strictly for the sake of art while others, like bookends, had a functional purpose as well. In the early days of pottery making, form most definitely followed function. From bowls, pitchers and other useful pieces, scarce resources were not ordinarily expended on purely decorative pieces. This was especially true in ancient times. This is not to say that a flower vase or ewer could not be useful and decorative at the same time. During the heyday of pottery making in Ohio, decorative and commemorative pottery pieces gained in popularity.

Companies like McCoy and Hull are famous for vases and planters that doubled as bookends. How beautiful it was to have fresh cit flowers adorning the bookshelf. Many of the pottery bookends produced during the early to mid twentieth century closely followed the arts and craft movement and eventually the art deco form. McCoy pottery was also well known for producing many different themes that included various plant and leaf patterns. In addition to bookends and such, popular forms of McCoy and Hull included distinct fluted vases and deep color glazing patterns.

The lovely McCoy White Horse bookends were first produced during the nineteen forties. Porcelain white in shade, the figures depict two draft horses rearing up on their back legs. The colorful birddog bookends, also from McCoy, feature beautifully detailed depictions of hunting dogs having just retrieved some game birds.

The Roseville bush berry pattern is a very collectible bookend that, if found in perfect condition, can fetch hundreds of dollars. The Roseville Zephyr Lily bookend is a beautifully unique pattern and is highly prized among some collectors. This distinctive pattern features a yellow lily, shown on full bloom, placed in the middle of an open book. The Roseville magnolia blue is another highly prized and collectible set of pottery bookends. Set in a simple green L shape, the flowering magnolia is placed in the center with a subtle accent of sunburst surrounding the flower.

Most of the kilns that produced some of the worlds most recognizable pottery are cold, or have disappeared forever. The dozens of pottery and stoneware producers that once dotted the landscape of southeast Ohio have dwindled to a handful.

The internet has provided collectors from all over the world with the opportunity to gain an appreciation for these pieces of Americana. As with any collectible pottery bookend, the buyer must always be wary of fakes and knockoffs.

About the Author

Mitch Endick is a short article writer for the popular decorative bookend site:
http:/www.decorativebookends.com. He provides interesting information buying and collecting decorative bookends.
www.decorativebookends.com

How to Make a Clay Casserole Dish : Tips on Stoneware Pottery

Pottery Bottle

Pottery Bottle
how much would little boozes cost ?

before my aunt died she had ppl bring her little bottles of booze to collect and ine of them says founded in 1843 but the booze might only be 30-40 years old…..would it be worth anything ? i opened one and i drank it lol but i feel bad now cuz if it was worth something well it wont be now and it was in a old looking pottery cylindar.

I assume you are talking about minatures, which have very little value full, and even less if the contents have been drunk.

My grandmother collected them, and when she died we found out how little they were worth.,

Making Ceramic Bottles With Spouts : Ceramic Bottle Handle Attachment

Art Deco

Art Deco
What’s the difference between Art Nouveau and Art Deco?

And what’s an easy way to tell the styles apart?

Art Nouveau is very romantic with swirling, fluid lines that are ornate and lyrical. It is very feminine and elegant.
Nouveau looks old fashioned.

Art Deco is geometric in shape…stark, dramatic, hard edged, built on planes, masculine in style and abbreviated. It has a very avante garde, modern look to it.

The difference between the two is like day and night…or better put..like the difference between man and woman……or the difference between Beardsley and Erte.

Art Deco – Treasures of The New York Public Library